Loro Piana Unveiled SS27 Amongst The Books

It had been a minute since a Fashion Week venue truly took my breath away, but somehow, Loro Piana managed to do just that. Presented amongst the books of the spectacular Biblioteca Braidense, the SS27 collection had me thinking more than once: I want to be a Loro Piana woman.

Titles "Solutions For", this collection comes from an idea that is something quite fundamental to the house. When Loro Piana moved from developing exceptional fabrics into ready-to-wear, clothes weren't conceived simply as decoration. They were supposed to answer a need: something to wear for a particular moment, activity, season or occasion.

For Spring/Summer 2027, that philosophy becomes a wardrobe that takes a man practically everywhere. There are solutions for staying warm, being outside, spending a day on the golf course, dressing for the evening, escaping somewhere early in the season and eventually doing very little beside the sea.

There is nothing particularly complicated about the starting point: A camel blazer. A trench. A balmacaan coat. A safari field jacket.

The result doesn't ask the wearer to perform for the clothes; the tailoring is soft and the combinations deliberately relaxed: blazers with chinos, coats with jeans and summer peacoats with wide trousers and braided raffia lace-ups. Bombers and field jackets appear with trousers tucked casually into socks. It's elegant, certainly, but the appeal lies in how little effort that elegance appears to require.

Texture does much of the work throughout the collection: Cashmere and tweed gradually give way to lighter fabrics as the season progresses, while the palette moves through neutrals, muted shades and colours that look as though they've spent a little time fading under the sun.

A quilted jacket can behave like a shirt, knitwear is designed to move between seasons. Pieces retain their intended function but aren't particularly precious about how they're supposed to be worn.

As the collection gets warmer, everything loosens up: bermuda shorts and sahariennes enter the picture, suits become lighter and increasingly unstructured, and by the time we reach the beach there are guayabera jackets, printed shirts and drawstring linen trousers.

It's perhaps our favourite part of Solutions For: that gradual transition from proper clothes to holiday clothes without either category completely disappearing. Even as the sun goes down, Loro Piana doesn't suddenly demand that everyone straighten up. Summer peacoats, stand-up collar jackets and cardigan jackets offer just enough structure, while eveningwear follows the same philosophy. Loose tuxedos, tuxedo shirt jackets and cardigan jackets come in a strict black-and-white palette, but the silhouettes retain the ease found everywhere else in the collection.

Accessories follow the same practical logic. The Heddle tote comes oversized in nubuck, grainy leather or canvas, joined by the Pioneer backpack and Extra Pouch. On foot, there are golf-inspired Goodyear derbies, very soft reverse-suede desert boots and sandals.

The oversized tote particularly makes sense within this world. A collection about having a solution for every eventuality presumably requires somewhere to put all those solutions.

There is something appealing about Loro Piana framing luxury around usefulness. Solutions For doesn't propose an entirely new way for us to dress, quite the opposite. It takes the familiar things we already rely on and considers how they could feel softer, work harder, transition more easily and fit into more parts of a life.

The house describes its approach as the point where “the functional and the elegant meet.”

For Spring/Summer 2027, that meeting point happens to include cashmere, loose tailoring, linen trousers and an oversized bag and quite frankly, we've certainly heard worse solutions.

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